You're not gonna damage a receiver with that little torque. Cans are not cheap, shim sets are.Īll the mounts ive ever installed with rocksett say torque to 20-30 ft-lbs If you have misalignment from a crush washer (or bad threads, bad shoulder, etc), this is not a manufacturing defect in the suppressor and is not a warranty issue. ![]() 223 cans to squeeze the last couple of decibels in performance, and in this instance, a crush washer can introduce enough misalignment to be a disaster. However, a number of manufacturers use a fairly tight aperture on their. All you need to do is make sure they go through a minimum of 90 (1/4 turn) rotation while crushing the washer before they index. Don't use Loctite on the muzzle brake Most muzzle brakes use a crush washer. 30 caliber projectile is really sloppy for. I found placing the barrel and brake in boiling water for 15-20 mins helps loosen the bond in removal. 223 caliber weapon, a crush washer doesn't matter simply because the hole for the. Even a fraction of a degree of misalignment introduced by a crush washer (or lockwasher) can multiply to enough misalignment at the suppressor end cap to cause an endcap strike and horrible accuracy. It does not matter how well a suppressor aligns to its QD mount, if the mount is not absolutely concentric and aligned with the bore, baffle strikes are a real probability. I've got one, it works well.Ĭrush washers rarely crush uniformly. You can buy a Magpul Bev block for less than $50 and you won't run into any rail interference issues, and it can be flipped to work on lower receivers. I just looked those barrel blocks up on Brownells, they're $71, which is kind of steep for what you get. The only problem with those blocks is that the popular rails these days are often 12-15", which would prevent you from using them without taking your rail off. Not my first choice, but sure, as long as you're securing the barrel and not the receiver when torquing on muzzle devices. Yet, most muzzle devices will take the standard crush washer. The last down side is that most shims are company specific, and cannot be used with other muzzle devices. They're usually placed under the piece of cardboard holding the muzzle device at the bottom of the box. It can also take 3 times longer to install the muzzle device as you have to constantly thread on, and thread off the muzzle device till the timing is correct. Something that engages and secures via the barrel extension or the barrel itself, not the upper or lower receiver.ĮTA: Each one of your SiCo muzzle devices should have come with shims. Muzzle devices should be changed with a reaction rod, Magpul Bev block, or by clamping the barrel directly into the vice. I wouldn't recommend using a standard upper receiver clamshell or pin type vice block, if that's what you're referencing. Sounds like you're all squared away on not using a crush washer, but out of curiosity, what kind of "vise block" are you using to change muzzle devices? 1/2-28 thread with crush washer included. Side and Top ported to reduce back pressure. CNC machined out of high quality solid stainless steel block.233 / 5.56 Shark muzzle brake. Is it time to get my wrench and vise block out? Hate the idea of ignoring Capitol Armory's advice, but is this the accepted creed? 223/5.56 Stainless Steel Shark Muzzle Brake w/Crush washer. ![]() All three muzzle devices have crush washers behind them. I've got 3 rifles all geared up with SilencerCo muzzle devices waiting for my Omega to get out of jail. To use crush washers is to invite baffle and end cap strikes. What I WASN'T expecting was the statement in the video to NEVER use crush washers behind these muzzle devices but to use shims. Over-torquing would occur if you bottom out and keep cranking on it like an idiot.Just watched Capitol Armory's YouTube video on the difference between using a flash hider versus a muzzle brake as a suppressor mount. Once it lets go and begins crushing, it is not maintaining that higher torque you needed to get it started, so you are not over-torquing it. If it is pretty hard, put some grease on the faces and put a bit more ass behind it. I have re-used them in what I felt were temporary applications and I just happened to have extra shims but I would not do it on a permanent installation. Compatible with: All AR-15/M16 barrels with -inch muzzle section. If you do, you would want to make them bigger, not smaller, or you might run out of "crush" before you are timed. You get one standard crush washer for a 22 caliber AR15/M16 barrel of the chosen size. You are not supposed to re-use crush washers. Though if I were to run into this situation I would just try a different crush washer instead of attempting to use a washer that was either already used or a washer that wont crush. ![]() Some people reuse crush washers that are out of crush and a lot of new crush washers just don't crush much at all with any reasonable amount of torque. Why would you use a file to reduce the thickness of a crush washer, when crushing it reduces the thickness?
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